Installing Bathroom Sink Plumbing

Hook up bathroom sink plumbing

Slide the retaining nut onto the pivot rod and attach it to the tailpiece. Installing the Pipes The locations of the supply and drain stub-outs are important. The rough-in phase is the one that requires the most plumbing know-how.

Installing Bathroom Sink Plumbing

You have it connected properly when you move the clevis rod up and down and the stopper moves correspondingly in the sink. This nut will secure the washer beneath the sink and make a waterproof fitting. After finishing this adjustment, fully tighten both the retaining nut and the clevis-lift rod attachment nut with your fingers. Conversely, when you pull the sink rod up, the stopper should seal the sink drain. It will be a flattened piece of rubber that fits up under the sink.

They must have the right size connectors to fit, so it's worth checking before you buy the hoses. Tighten all of the slip nuts and test for leaks. After cutting off the caps with a pipe cutter, you can either solder slip-joint valves to the pipes or tighten on compression valves with a wrench.

Preparing the Stub-Outs Before you hook up the sink, you need to install shutoff valves on the supply stub-outs.

The pipe that extends down from the drain is called the tailpiece, and it should end at the same level as the top of the drain so that the trap connects easily. The drain should be lined up with the sink drain and centered between the supply stub outs. Press it in until the putty begins to ooze out of the sides of the flange. In the second, or finishing, phase, you hook the sink and faucet to the stub-outs. Most connecting slip nuts tighten by hand, but if there are metal connecting nuts, you will need to use adjustable pliers.

Hold the washer in place and screw on the connecting lock nut. Then slide the other side of the spring clip onto the rod behind the clevis strap to hold it on the rod. The first is the rough-in, when you install all the water, drain and vent pipes in the walls and leave them stubbing out at the sink location.

Connecting the Sink It's always easier

The putty needs to cover the circumference of the drain flange without any breaks. Next, slide the clevis strap onto the end of the pivot rod.

The extending part of the drain that hangs beneath the sink is the tailpiece. Allow the stub-outs to extend a few inches from the wall and cap them until you're ready to install the sink. Line it up with an insertion hole on the sink stopper.

Overview The supply, drain and vent pipes for the sink tie into the system of pipes already servicing your bathroom, and the difficulty of the rough-in depends on the system's overall configuration. You have to uncover the wall to run the pipes through it, and the water must be off when you solder the tees onto the pipes from which you're drawing the supply. Tighten the lock nut firmly so that the plumber's putty oozes out from beneath the drain flange. The faucet supply hoses connect to the shutoff valves and faucet inlets, and you tighten them with adjustable pliers. Adjust the lift rod on the clevis strap so that when you push the rod down, the sink stopper pops up.

There is a nut on the clevis strap to adjust the height of the lift rod. After connecting the pop-up stopper, the sink should be ready to use. Connecting the Sink It's always easier to preinstall the faucet and drain onto a sink before installing the sink so you don't have to do these procedures while lying on your back. If it's done properly, finishing should be problem-free.

There is a nut onAfter connecting the